I made a fish!

And who could stop with just one? Not me.

A shark, ray, and several other fish made from wire

For scale, the sheets of paper behind the fish are 11x17.

Unlike the birds, I decided to twist the two ends of the wire together to make a single wire to stick into the ground. Partly because I can’t have two wires, imitating legs, and partly because trying to get two different pieces of wire into the ground at the same kind is annoying.

I posted more pictures of the wire birds on Flickr. Like this one:

Little wire bird in the garden

Early in the season, pansies and daffodils and other miscellanous plants help hide the little bird.

Share

A different kind of project

If you’ve been stalking me elsewhere, this won’t be news, but all of my project time for the last month or so has gone into getting Artisan’s Asylum up and running. I predict this will remain the case for the near future, too.

I did the design for the website (CSS, OMG you seem so simple at first BUT NO) – which got me toying with the idea of creating actual entire themes for my own blogs, but . . . well, why? – have helped out with space planning (Revit, whee!), and even committed Art in the name of painting the walls.

I should upload a picture of that.

Anyway. It has consumed most of my available thinking and doing stuff time. And it has been fun! And it will be even more awesome when all the preliminary setup is done! But I would like to get back to those abandoned piles of lovely stone beads, and my order of wire from McMaster.

And the garden. Oh dear, the garden. It’s looking a bit jungle-like out there, and the tomatoes need supports built.

And because I have nothing else going on in July (HA. HA.), I signed up for a clothing making class – Form-Fitting Clothing Design – so that will be fun! I’ve been looking for an excuse to make a dress dummy for some time. And get shirts that fit me right!

Share

I made a bird!

Bird silhouette made from wire

Bird silhouette made from wire, ready to be stuck in the ground

I can’t entirely remember where the idea came from, but a few days ago I started thinking that I could probably make bird silhouettes using the 19 gauge stainless wire I have around, and use them to mark where some of my plants are. Especially the bulbs, which are starting to go dormant. I already made some other plant markers using 14 gauge (?) wire, but that’s rather hard to work with compared to this thin stuff; I can work the thin wire mostly by hand.

The previous plant markers are spirals and loops and things, and I am bored with them, and I like birds, so, a couple rough sketches of birds were enough to get me started, and then as I was bending it, it took the final shape.

Sketches for wire birds; wire-bending tools

Serious tools for serious wire, plus sketches

I very nearly grabbed my good jewelry-making tools, but remembered in time to go get the normal tools, because they can handle steel wire without being harmed.

Silhouette of a bird

Silhouette of a bird; the shapes behind it are sketches for a necklace on another piece of trace paper

Sketch of a bird silhouette

Sketch of a bird silhouette. Very cute. I think this one will be next.

Now I am thinking of ways to suspend a piece of beer can, cut in a wing shape, inside the silhouette; the aluminum is soft enough to “write” on (make an impression, really) with a ballpoint pen, so the wing could serve as a plant label. I’d probably need to add more wire (maybe thinner gauge) to suspend the wing/label, and that might ruin the lines a bit. We shall see.

Oh! While I am thinking about it: this weekend I (re)added a couple of ways to subscribe to the blog, meaning, get an annoying email letting you know an update has occurred; the options are in the right column here on the main blog, but they will not show up in the syndicated feed on LJ. The Add to Any button will also let you get an update through about a million zillion other ways, too, in addition to email (Netvibes, um, uh, stuff). At the present time, the update email will only send a short excerpt from the post, not the whole thing.

Share

Wire wrapping feathers at Instructables

I figured out how to make the Instructables process less painful: I discovered and set up the automagic import-pictures-from-Flickr thing. That was nice!

So: Method 1

And: Method 2

Check those out if you would rather read them there (or download them as PDFs!) than in my really long post.

Also – very exciting! – they are currently “Featured” projects on Instructables’ front page.

I’ve thought about trying to videotape the process, too. As if I have the time to mess around with that; I just know I’d get sucked into all sorts of fancy video-editing things, but it might make things more understandable than flipping back and forth between pictures and text.

Share

Wire wrapping feathers

For some strange reason – well, a couple of strange reasons, actually – I have a lot of feathers, and limiting myself to gluing them to things is kind of, well, limiting. Especially if I want to make dangly earrings, or necklaces, or or things, with them.

Wire wrapping seemed like the easiest way to make dangly things with them. I can’t recall if I found any examples online before I got started (my first page of Google hits now doesn’t turn up any particularly good tutorials), so let’s just say I made it up as I went along.

I have a lovely photoset at Flickr, with instructions, or you can read it all right here. (One of these days, I may also make an Instructable, but when I started one a week or two ago, the interface was so aggravating that I gave up.)

First, you need the following tools and materials:

  • round-nose pliers*
  • flat nose pliers*
  • wire cutters
  • feathers
  • very thin wire (I used 26 gauge)

I tried two different methods. The first starts by forming a loop (with one short end and one long end) in the wire, to hang the feather from, and then wrapping wire down the shaft of the feather, trapping the short end of the wire against the feather shaft. The second starts by wrapping wire UP the shaft of the feather, again trapping wire against the shaft, then forming the hanging loop, and finishing by wrapping the remaining wire back down the shaft. I like the first method better, but both seem to create a pretty firm connection between the wire and the feather, though I didn’t try REALLY REALLY HARD to pull the feathers free.

So. On to the wrapping:

Measuring the wire by jfeathersmith.

Because this was a tiny feather (OMG do not use a tiny feather for your first try) I wanted to have almost as much straight wire held against the feather as there was bare feather shaft. It seemed like it would be the strongest way to wire the feather, and aesthetically appealing.

Measuring the wire (2) by jfeathersmith.

I grabbed the wire with the round-nose pliers where I wanted the straight part to end, and the loop (to hang the feather from) to begin.

Make a wire loop by jfeathersmith.

I wrapped the long end (still attached to the spool, because I like making life more complicated) around the pliers to complete the loop.

Completing the loop by jfeathersmith.

Then I bent the long end back around the short straight end, to start the wrapping of wire around the straight wire plus - in a moment - the feather.

Another view of the loop by jfeathersmith.

Another view of the loop

Is the length right? by jfeathersmith.

I checked to make sure I still had the right length of wire to hold next to the shaft, and finally cut the long wire free of the spool, so I had about 2 inches of wire to wrap -around- the shaft and short end.

Preparing to wrap the feather by jfeathersmith.

Why you should not use a tiny feather: Because holding the thin wire and the thin shaft together tightly while also wrapping thin wire AROUND them both is a pain in the butt. Holding the short wire and the shaft really tightly with pliers helped some (yes, it squashed the shaft. in fact I think it broke it a bit. it doesn't matter; you can't see it when you're done).

Examine this loop by jfeathersmith.

See that tiny loop of wire wrapped around the straight wire? Adjust that slightly if necessary so that it is just big enough to hold the very end of the feather shaft. That helps with the final wrapping.

Another view of the shaft-holding loop by jfeathersmith.

Another view of the loop

Grasp firmly and wrap by jfeathersmith.

I gave up on the pliers because I couldn't get coordinated enough to manage and just pinched the feather+wire together tightly with my fingers. Having fingernails helps. Once I had the short piece of wire and the feather closely aligned, and the shaft of the feather just butting against the loop, I wrapped the long piece of wire around and around the shaft+wire combo.

Wire-wrapped feather earring by jfeathersmith.

Connect the feather to an earring loop, and you are done!

Thus endeth the lesson.

I didn’t keep the above earring; that’s just for photographic purposes. I wrapped another tiny feather and made these:

Feather and labradorite earrings by jfeathersmith.

Feather and labradorite earrings. I have some tiny beads made from labradorite; in the right light, they show a blue "flash" that matches the feathers.

I also made an earcuff with a feather dangle, but those photos will be another post, because I have several other earcuffs I want to post at the same time.

Here is method 2 for wire wrapping a feather, but I didn’t like the results as well:

A larger feather by jfeathersmith.

This time, I started wrapping near the fluffy part of the feather, not at the end of the shaft. I didn't want to wrap the entire bare shaft, because it was fairly long. I still wanted about half an inch of overlap between wire and feather, so I formed a loop about that far from one end of the wire (which I cut this time before starting! I CAN HAS LEARNINGS). This loop is not for hanging the feather, it will go around the shaft about half an inch from the end.

Forming the bottom loop by jfeathersmith.

Forming the first loop

Insert feather into loop by jfeathersmith.

I placed the loop in the right position against the feather.

Wire held against feather by jfeathersmith.

Another view of the wire and feather held together

Starting the wrapping by jfeathersmith.

I again found it easier to start wrapping by holding the thing in my fingers. Here I have wrapped the wire around the feather+short wire once.

Ready to finish wrapping by jfeathersmith.

With the larger feather, and more shaft to work with, this time I found it easy to grab the wire and feather with the flat-nose pliers, and wrap the remaining wire around by hand. Part of the trick is that the wire is thinner than the feather shaft, so to hold both together, you really have to squash the feather. Otherwise, that dang wire will slide all over the place.

Wrapping in progress by jfeathersmith.

Don't worry about how the short wire is not tight against the shaft. As you wrap the long wire around them both, it will pull the shaft and short wire together. You will need to move the pliers out of the way; by this point, you don't need a death grip on the assembly, so you can place them over the wrapped section and hold firmly, just not so firmly you flatten things out.

Nearly done by jfeathersmith.

I didn't get the wire positioned quite where I wanted, as there is a short bit of it sticking past the shaft. That can be clipped off.

Make the hanging loop by jfeathersmith.

Now I have just enough wire left to make a loop to hang the feather from. I'm not wrapping to the very end of the shaft right now, because I will finish that after making the hanging loop.

Preparing to make the loop by jfeathersmith.

I straightened out the wire so that it will be easier to wrap part of it against the shaft after I make the loop.

Making the hanging loop by jfeathersmith.

I used the round-nose pliers to make a loop at the end of the shaft. The bare bit of the shaft end, and the wire next to it, will be wrapped with the remaining wire.

Complete wrapping by jfeathersmith.

I grabbed the loop with the flat-nose pliers, and wrapped the remaining wire back down the shaft, trapping the straight wire against it.

Wire-wrapped feather by jfeathersmith.

Finished!

* Some asides about pliers: Really, you could do this all with a single pair of needle-nose pliers, the kind you get at a hardware store. You won’t be able to get perfectly round loops, but if you don’t mind the look of a square-ish loop, go for it (I don’t have photos of this). You could also form the loop by wrapping the wire around a thin stick, like a bamboo skewer; the pliers just help hold the wire still while you wrap it. Also: most pliers not intended for jewelery-making have ridges/serrations on their jaws. These will mar the wire, which is a look you  might like, but if not, wrap some tape (electrical, duct, whatever) around the serrated parts to protect the wire.

Share

Origami Easter

Despite having prettier kleenex boxes around this year (same pattern as last, but blue or pink or purple), I decided not to repeat last year’s Easter basket. I went for origami as the easiest way to make a container to hold tasty chocolate treats.

Easter basket with butterfly and chick

I used this basket pattern, plus the baby chicken and butterfly patterns from Kunihiko Kasahara’s Creative Origami (the book I learned origami from, many years ago), to make the origami pieces. The paper for the baskets came from my endless supply of gently used wrapping paper; the paper for the chick and butterfly came from my supply of actual origami paper, which remains a surprisingly consistent size over the years.

I filled the baskets with crumpled tissue paper and a variety of foil-wrapped eggs. The blue tissue bundles hold malted eggs, and ended up forming part of the support for the butterflies.

Origami Easter basket with butterfly and chick

I used the tissue bundles to support the butterflies, by pushing one end of a flat toothpick into the twist of the bundle, and the other end into the folds of the butterfly’s body (no puncturing of paper necessary; the folds are tight enough to hold the toothpick, as long as you don’t jostle the arrangement!).

I didn’t plan this out carefully in advance; I started with “I’ll make baskets with an origami fold and tissue paper fill.” Then I thought it needed something more interesting to decorate it with because I didn’t buy any little toys, and chicks are traditional (that is the 2nd fold I ever memorized) . . . and a butterfly would be a nice touch and oh hey I bet if I stuck a toothpick into the folds of the butterfly I could prop it up better instead of just setting it on top of everything, and from the right angle it’ll look like it’s flying! Hey, look, those tissue bundles might come in handy.

I also thought about making an origami flower, but I didn’t like the look of any of the folds. So the butterfly is going to have to find another place to get breakfast.

Share

A bunch of links about tools

Lindstrom’s home page. They make a variety of high-end pliers and cutters, and have info online about their products.

Swanstrom’s home page. They also make a variety of high-end pliers and cutters, and have somewhat less helpful info about their products (organization of some of it leaves much to be desired.)

JewelryMakingGuide.com: article about super-flush cutters.

artjewelrymag Forum discussion about flush cutters.

From JewelryLessons.com: q&a about pliers.

Jewelry Pliers and Wire Wrapping Supplies: Basic Tools You Need…And Don’t Need – a useful list!

Another list of tools and resources.

Choosing the right pliers for the job.

Description of mandrel-tip pliers.

Advice about buying beads online.

Share

Saving the kitchen sink from boggy horror, part 1

Historically, this has been the way sponges and scrubbing things have been stored on the kitchen sink:

Sponges and scrubbers at the kitchen sink

IMPERILED! Sponges rest on the sink edge; scrubbers sit in a dish

The dish has no drainage. It gets quite disgusting as water drips off the brushes. And anything sitting all the way in the bottom of the dish also gets quite disgusting.

So I started thinking about trying to find some kind of metal or plastic mesh that could be fitted inside the dish, raised up slightly, so that the cleaning objects could sit on the mesh, ABOVE the disgusting soapy water muck mix that accumulates. The back of the sink would also need something so the sponges would actually have a chance to dry out.

Early sketches of the brush-saving device

Early sketches of the brush-saving device

First I thought about making it all one piece that would loop up from the sink over the edge of the dish and down into the dish.

Then I thought it made more sense to make 2 pieces, so they could be removed and cleaned individually; the mesh for the sponges still needs some kind of hook on it to hold it to the dish so it doesn’t get knocked into the sink.

I also thought that maybe some kind of Y-shaped support could be inserted into the dish to hold the brush handles up; right now, they tend to fall onto the sponges. Making hooks to hang from the windowsill above the sink is another idea.

So far, I have made the mesh to sit inside the dish:

Half of the dish mesh, on a jig made with small nails and scrap wood

Half of the dish mesh, on a jig made with small nails and scrap wood

The mesh woven together, with the jig set up for the 2nd piece

The mesh woven together, with the jig set up for the 2nd piece. The feet still need to be formed from the ends of the wires, and it needs some minor bending to flatten it out.

Finished mesh

Finished, feet and all.

Mesh in dish

Mesh in dish. I had to bend a couple of the loops of wire a bit to get it to fit; apparently the jig (or my bending technique) was not quite precise enough.

Scrubbers resting on the mesh

Hooray! The scrubbers are saved from the Bog of Doom!

I used stainless steel wire, which was a disappointing matte grey, not the shiny highly polished stainless steel that I am used to seeing in the silverware drawer. However, with all the bending and manipulating of the metal with metal pliers (and rubbing against the wire nails, it was a lot shinier by the time I finished. (So if when I make jewelry with this stuff, I shall see about polishing it to make it shiny.)

The weaving process took the most time, because as soon as I’d push the wire just over the other piece of mesh, it wanted to slip off. And weaving in the very last length of wire was pretty difficult. Wire: not as flexible as string or yarn! Shocking!

I’m thinking now that pieces of woven wire might be interesting foundational structures to support beads and other, more complicated shapes, perhaps for bracelets (not that I wear bracelets) or necklaces or . . . things. And brass (or copper) would be a lot easier to manipulate. Perhaps instead of a straight, rectangular mesh, I could set up a jig to create more angular shapes, something more V-shaped. (I can see it in my head, but I haven’t sketched it out. Yet.)

Time to make:

  • One washing machine cycle (somewhere between 30 minutes and an hour). I know this because I started my laundry and then started the jig and bending, down in the basement where I could easily hear the machine going through its process. (I did the sketching on a previous day. But it didn’t take very long.)

Materials:

  • Stainless steel wire from the local Tags.
  • Wire nails (for the jig)
  • Scrap wood (for the jig)

Tools:

  • Hammer
  • Small needle-nose pliers (to hold the wire nails while I hammered them in; this saved me many smashed fingers. Also used sometimes to bend the wire, though I used my hands a lot, too)
  • Diagonal wire cutters

Now to save the sponges.

Share

Some things in progress and ear terminology

I have been playing with a variety of shapes for ear cuffs, both large cuffs for the entire ear and smaller pieces. I’ve started to get really interested in cuffs that hook over the top front part of the ear, which apparently doesn’t have a special name. It’s like the lobe, only the upper part. You know, the top part of where your ear attaches to your head? That spot.

Diagram of the external parts of an ear

An almost-helpful diagram of a human ear. Source of original ear image.

Anyway.

I’d like to know how to best describe that spot because some of the larger ear cuffs have a hook that curves around that spot. (Some fit only over that spot, and are small; some fit over that spot plus one or two other places around the helix because they are rather larger.)

ETA (July 30): I got email from a reader earlier this week with the answer! It is called the “forward pinna” or “forward helix.” Thank you!

Here’s what my desk looks like at the moment. More or less. I rearranged a few things to fit them into the shot better.

Some experimental ear cuffs. Also: trace paper diagrams that help me recreate certain shapes. Also: a feather I experimented with to see how wire wrapping a feather would go. Click on the photo for a MUCH LARGER version.

I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with different ideas, and the desire to go try them out tends to get priority over perfecting any idea. And of course once I get one to a point that looks good, then I have more ideas to build on that idea. It’s fun, but it’s a little frustrating, too, because I can only do one thing at once!

Share